When it comes to desserts, whole-grain flours don't tend to set hearts aflutter. They're like the no-nonsense aunts of the confectionery world -- full of virtue, too sensible to really thrill.

But classically trained pastry chef Kim Boyce, who spent years in such venerable Los Angeles restaurants as Spago and Campanile, has unearthed their hidden beauty. In her sumptuous new book, "Good to the Grain: Baking with Whole-Grain Flours," she's single-handedly coaxed these nutritious alternatives out of the health-food store and into the mainstream.

Boyce was initially inspired when she became a mom and wanted to feed her children home-baked goods filled with love, not empty calories. She was ultimately hooked by the array of complex, wholesome flavors and pleasingly chewy textures brought to the table by unexpected flours such as barley, spelt, and quinoa.

Her recipes either limit refined flour or avoid it entirely, and while they boast the nutritional benefits of whole grains (a low glycemic index, higher levels of protein and fiber), that's almost beside the point. What makes these creations truly special is how inarguably delicious they are.

Barley is an ancient grain rich in protein and soluble fiber, which is great for reducing cholesterol. These homey, rustic scones are made with buttermilk barley dough and spill over with sunny citrus marmalade. Vary the filling to suit your taste; for a kid-friendly option, try strawberry or raspberry jam.

Huge, craggy, chewy, and delicious, these cookies are guaranteed to become classics in your kitchen. The whole-wheat flour gives them a rich nuttiness; the heft, caramel glow, and generous chunks of hand-chopped chocolate make them irresistible.

In the other recipes here, whole-grain flours are paired with the all-purpose white variety for structure and balance, but in this one the whole-wheat flour stands alone.

Spelt flour is a close relative of wheat flour, but it's sweeter, milder, and higher in protein, making it a great addition to all-purpose. This deceptively simple snack cake features dark chocolate, rosemary, and fruity olive oil. Trust us when we tell you it won't last a day. You'll find yourself sneaking fragrant slices at the counter, serving wedges with a cup of coffee in the afternoon, and eating the rest for dessert.

Quinoa, high in protein and important amino acids, has a unique, earthy taste that surprises the palate. It finds its balance with similarly distinctive flavors such as those of beets, molasses, and warm spices. In this festive tart, a rich cream-cheese dough serves as the base for jewel-toned cranberries and figs stewed in wine, which combine to spectacular (and seasonal) effect.