Once one of life's simplest pleasures, basking in the summer sun has gotten complicated lately -- and not just because of the ever-shrinking ozone layer. The past year has given rise to a host of developments in the world of SPF, from sudden safety concerns over "natural" sunscreens to claims of false labeling among major brands. Then there's the buzz about a new chemical ingredient that has even some holistic-leaning experts interested.

With the industry developing so quickly, what is the best approach to skin protection this summer? As always, stay out of the sun from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., wear protective clothing, and liberally apply your choice of sunscreen. As for the latest news, we talked to several of the nation's top dermatologists, as well as the Skin Cancer Foundation and the FDA. Chart your course of sun protection this summer with their advice.

Too-Tiny Minerals
Physical sunscreens (which use the minerals zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide to scatter and reflect UV radiation) have long been considered more natural than chemical sunscreens, which use photosensitive chemicals to absorb the sun's rays. But their safety has recently come into question. Essentially ground-up mineral particles mixed in an emollient base, they're effective -- but not without leaving a telltale white residue. To address this issue, cosmetics companies have taken to shrinking (or "micronizing") these particles for a less pasty look. Hence the controversy: Recent reports suggest that particles micronized too finely could be absorbed by the skin. Worse, UV light from the sun may interact with them to cause cellular DNA damage.

How serious is this threat? At the moment it's unclear. "The FDA is collaborating with the National Institutes of Health and the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences on studies examining the skin absorption and phototoxicity of nano-size titanium dioxide and zinc oxide preparations," says FDA spokeswoman Susan Cruzan. The Skin Cancer Foundation deems the minerals safe, as do most mainstream dermatologists, even those who remain open to the idea that future research may prove otherwise. "Sure, there's an off chance of it," says Dr. David Bank, an associate in clinical dermatology at New York-Presbyterian Hospital/Columbia University in New York City, and director of the Center for Dermatology, Cosmetic and Laser Surgery in Mount Kisco, New York. "But what we've been certain about for a long time is that unprotected exposure to UV rays causes cancer. These minerals are among the most effective blockers of those harmful rays," he adds.

Bottom Line
"The known protection offered by these substances still outweighs their relatively small, theoretical risk," says Dr. Catherine Hoffman, a dermatologist in Fresno, California. Until we have more definitive research that shows otherwise, the more natural choice continues to be physical sunscreens.