Dwindling resources and fish populations. High mercury and PCB content. Farm-raised versus wild.
With all the concerns surrounding seafood, buying fish has become a navigational nightmare. But don’t let fear or confusion scare you away. Before heading to the market, learn a few simple rules.
Befriend a Fishmonger
By developing a rapport with the person selling your fish, you’ll feel comfortable asking important questions, and you’ll get trustworthy information. If your seller doesn’t know the answers, find another retailer.
Remember that just because a store is small doesn’t mean it’s better. Many independent fish markets sell safe, sustainable seafood, but some may not. Meanwhile, larger chains may have stringent safeguards in place — and the clout to enforce them. Whole Foods, for instance, visits its suppliers and producers worldwide to see how they operate. The company also prohibits fish farmers from using antibiotics and growth hormones and requires that they “minimize the impacts of fish farming on the environment by protecting sensitive habitats,” according to Carrie Brownstein, the company’s seafood quality standards coordinator.
Regardless of where you shop, let your vendor know that you won’t eat overfished species. Tom McCann, spokesman for Ocean Conservancy, says doing this gets the message across: “Educated consumers can put pressure on stores and restaurants so that everyone makes better decisions.”
Buy Wild
Wild fish typically are a sustainable, safe option. The naturally occurring nutrients they feed on often make for better taste. Plus, properly managed fisheries use methods that protect the ocean floor and the fish supply.
Look for the blue-and-white logo from the Marine Stewardship Council (on packaging, labels, and fish counter seafood tags), which certifies commercial fisheries that keep populations within sustainable levels, minimize environmental impact, and meet all local, national, and international laws of sustainability. You’ll find the logo on wild Alaskan salmon, Oregon pink shrimp, and U.S. North Pacific sablefish (also known as black cod).
Note, though, that mismanaged wild fisheries do exist, depleting fish populations and damaging the ocean floor. To get them on the straight and narrow, organizations like Ocean Conservancy help put responsible management plans in place. For example, because of the group’s recent work, it now recommends red snapper from the Gulf of Mexico, long considered a bad eco option. Why the change? The Gulf’s regional fishery council put a science-based catch limit (also called a limited access privilege program) in place for the season. This helps rebuild diminishing populations.
You’ll also want to make sure your wild fish hasn’t come from polluted waters. Wild salmon that comes from Washington state and Oregon, for instance, can have high levels of polychlorinated biphenyls, or PCBs, which are potential carcinogens.
